Pistol River Trails & Sights

Pistol River Trails & Sights

The Pistol River flows under Rt 101 approx. 16 mi. N of Brookings.  At this point it is flowing thru an area of open dunes from a pleasant Mt. valley.  The small marked parking area is on the ocean side of the highway, just N of the Carpenterville road & S of the river.  The river meanders N after crossing the highway about a mile before flowing into the ocean.

The short drive to the small parking area ends at an old riverbed that is often dry during early summer & has a large shallow pool the rest of the year.  When the old bed is dry it is a nice hike following the river to the ocean, then back on the beach.

The headland & looking toward Pistol River & Cape Sebastian from headland

I prefer to follow the old riverbed S to the beach, then continue S to a rocky headland you can see about 2 mi away.  You can follow the beach back or by going inland just N of the stream on the Oregon Coast Trail about 1/4 mi you will find a horse trail thru the dunes you can follow back if you wish.  

This headland is closed because it is the nesting site of the Snowy Prover, an endangered bird that lays its eggs among the gravel spread on the highlands.  The eggs blend in so well with the gravel that if you entered the area it is likely you would step on them no matter how careful you were.  You should stay out of the area in spring & summer.  You may be able to enter in the fall, but check with the DNR at Crissey Field south of Brookings.  The headland itself has some interesting formations & if you cross over it you will find a beautiful long beach that hardly anyone visits because it is so far to it & the nature preserve. 

I prefer hiking the Oregon Coast trail from Rt 101 to the headland.  It is about 2 mi one way.  I prefer this because before it opens up to dunes near the ocean, most of it is thru forested dunes with openings of dune grass & plenty of hills to explore if you have lots of energy & the topography is very interesting.  There is a side loop trail that will take you by Lake Lena (?) that is just a marshy area that once was a lake & is difficult to see.  I don’t recommend this side trail.  The biggest problem with this trail is the parking.  It is a very small undeveloped parking space at the end of a long uphill section of guard rail along Rt. 101 S of Carpenterville Rd.  The is a gate for a private drive just S of this parking area you can use as a land mark.  The road edge drops sharply, so unless you have high clearance, be careful.

Mrys Creek Beach

There are nice beach walks with large rock monoliths at 2 bends of Rt 101 north of where the Pistol River flows into the ocean.  There are large pull offs for parking at both bends & another just  beyond the Mrys Creek bridge.  This is a very pleasant & photogenic beach to walk on.  It is likely that during the  summer you may see a couple of the famous Oregon Beach Shacks made of piled driftwood.  If a beach towel is hugh over the entry, it is occupied.  

Cape Sebastian to the north has 2 overlooks accessible via a drive from Rt 101 near the top of the hill.  These have very nice views.

Secret Beach - Boardman Scenic Corridor

Secret Beach

Following the Oregon Coast Trail will take you down to Thunder Rock Cove before it loops back up the hill, crosses the upper part of a shallow coast valley, then drops down to Secret Beach.  You can cut out the Thunder Rock Cove trail section by taking the short cut trail to the right shortly after leaving the parking lot.

After crossing a bridge over a small stream, another trail will cross the OCT from the R or uphill side.  Uphill this is a shortcut trail to a very small, unofficial parking area on the road,  downhill it leads to Secret Beach.  The OCT continues uphill to the north, but you have to look for it, since there are several scramble trails here.

Secret Beach seen fro trail

The trail to Secret Beach drops down to a rock at the edge of the ocean which you can climb down to the 1st beach.  The view from above the rock you is beautiful!  The near shore rocks & on shore rocks with the sand & trees are fantastic! This is only one of the reasons this is my favorite beach.   Hopefully you will understand the other reasons from my description.

Entry rock centered

The climb down isn’t too bad, just wear shoes with soft soles & good support, & watch your step.  You’ll see that the stream you crossed on the bridge is an approx. 25 ft tall waterfall dropping down to the beach.  This stream at the foot of the rock flows thru beach sand.  Its path varies.  Sometimes it flows against the base of the rock, making it difficult to access the beach without getting your feet wet.  In summer, just wear shorts & jump in, its not deep.  It can also be difficult to cross with dry feet even if its channel is away from the rock.  I always plan on getting my feet wet when I visit Secret Beach.

The 1st beach is very nice with a sort of gateway between 2 large rocks leading to the 2nd beach at its south end.  I like to sit between these rocks with my back to the shoreward rock & watch the wave action on both beaches.  There is another stream flowing across this beach flowing out of a small canyon.  This interesting canyon can be explored a short ways.  

From this beach, during the summer, you will often be able to see a small herd of Sea Lions sunning their selfs on a rock ledge north of the rock you climbed down to get to Secret Beach.  A pair of binoculars will help.  

The south end of this beach narrows between rocks & stops at a rock wall approx 15 ft. high.  This wall bars the way to the 3rd & 4th beaches & is the reason this is called Secret Beach.  There are a couple of ways to access these beaches.  1st, you can watch the tide charts for negative low tides, then scramble around the end of this rock wall.  At really low tides, you may not even get your feet wet.  Once around the wall it is a short climb to the beach.  The other way is to climb over the rock wall.  This is a pretty easy climb up, but can be somewhat difficult climbing back down.  Long legs really help & you can see the foot holds when climbing down, but it is straight down with jagged rock at the bottom.  Note: you can see a natural tunnel in the large rock near the shore, but you would have to get very wet to get to it.  

4th Beach looking back toward entry

Once on the 3rd beach, you can access this tunnel from the beach.  Some times what I call 3rd & 4th beaches are combined.  The reason I call them 3rd & 4th beaches is because most times there is a low rock ridge, that juts out into the ocean, up to 6 ft. tall separating them.  But sometimes this ridge is buried under drifting sand. They are easy to scramble over at any height.

Rounding a rock point you will see a large opening in the rock wall to the south.  This rock wall is the tableland described in the Thunder Rock Cove post.  You can climb onto the rock  inside this tunnel & watch the waves push thru the other sea tunnels into Thunder Rock Cove, very cool!  This tunnel is also the tunnel that makes the thunder sound during storms as the waves wash thru it.

The cave with Thunder Cove in background.  

Waves surging thru this cave during storms give Thunder Cove its name.

The way out of Secret Beach is to back track the way you came.  I hope once you visit this series of beaches, you will understand why this is my favorite beach.

The last recommendation in the Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor is Arch Rock.  This is accessed via a parking lot with restrooms on Rt 101.  Short walks  to fenced cliff tops will take you to views of Arch Rock & the coast.  The reason for the fences is because stupid people & dogs often fell from these cliffs. In addition to the places I’ve described, there are miles of good hiking all along this coast. 

Enjoy the next post.  Pistol River

Natural Bridges & Thunder Rock Cove - Boardman Scenic Corridor

Natural Bridges & Thunder Rock Cove

The parking area for Natural Bridges is well marked on Rt. 101, about 12-14 mi N of Brookings, OR.  Exiting the parking south end of the parking lot, a short walk, mostly on a boardwalk, will take you to the best view of Natural Bridges.  There isn’t much beyond the end of the boardwalk of interest, unless you want to scramble down the hill & climb on the rocks.  The boardwalk trail, the short trail linkling  & the trail down to Thunder Rock Cove & Secret Beach, are sections of the Oregon Coast Trail.  Bring a picnic or lunch.

Just beyond the Natural Bridges parking area is another parking area.  The area north of this parking lot is my favorite of the whole lower 48 west coast.  The trail leaving the north end of the parking lot will take you down to Thunder Rock Cove.  Shortly after you cross a very small stream by parking lot, the trail forks.  The trail to the left takes you down to Thunder Rock Cove, then loops back up the hill, crosses the upper part of a shallow coast valley, then drops down to Secret Beach.  The right trail is just a short cut, to cut out Thunder Cove & joins the OCT going north.

Thunder Cove

It is about .3 mi down to Thunder Rock Cove, with some switch backs near the bottom.  Near a big tree on the left you can go as close to the edge of the cove as you want.  You’ll see cliffs about 70 ft. high enclosing a small cove. The cliffs sea ward side are pierced with several natural tunnels.  Check them out!  You won’t be able to see the large tunnel that pierces the cliff to the right unless you want to risk falling into the cove.  It is from this tunnel that you hear the thunder during big storms that gives Thunder Rock Cove its name.

Large Sea Arch w/ table land to right

From there the trail drops down a short distance to a nice wide cliff top table land.  Check out he beaches to the north (R/N).  You will be able to see the 3rd & 4th Secret Beaches.  Note: if you look carefully, you can see a dark natural tunnel in the big rock just beyond the 1st rock abutment. You can see water gust thru it during storms & you can access it from Secret Beach.

Secret Beaches

The views from the Thunder Cove table land are all great, in almost any weather.  I’ve been out here in all kinds of storms, except thunder storms.  There is a narrow water fall on the cove wall dropping aprox 60 ft onto a beach during spring & early summer.  This is a great place for a picnic during good weather.

Goat Rock

I’ve see Mt. Goats on the big pointly rock jutting out from the shore due south of the open side of the cove 5 or 6 times.  In 2010 there was 1 Billy with horns the length of his body, approx. 3 feet, & 3 Nanneys with little horns.  It is amazing they can walk on this rock, but that is why they are called Mt Goats.

Leaving the table land, the Oregon Coast Trail takes off on the left, where it loops back up the hill, crosses the upper part of a shallow coast valley, then drops down to Secret Beach. This is a pleasant hike of approx. .6 mi.  The short cut trail joins the OCT near the top of the hill.

Enjoy Secret Beach the next post in this series.

Indian Sands - Boardman Scenic Cooridor

Indian Sands

Near the top of the hill north of Whales Head on Rt 101 is the entrance to the Indian Sands parking lot.  There is good view of the coast northward from the parking lot. The trail exits the south side of the parking lot & goes up a little before it cuts steeply down the hill with several switchbacks.  I figure that if I can make it up this hill without stopping for a breath at my age, I’m in pretty good shape.

At the bottom of the hill it joins the Oregon Coast Trail.  By taking the OCT to the right a short hike will take you to Indian Sands.  This is a open area preached on rocky cliffs above the ocean.  The terrain is varied & well worth exploring.  There are rock outcrops, sea crevices, clay hills & drifting sand.  

The most popular place to visit is down hill to the left just as you reach the open area.  This will take you down to a very small cove with a large natural sea tunnel on the south and a small waterfall dropping approx. 80 ft. to the water in the cove.  This is a very appealing spot because waves are always pushing thru the tunnel & mixing with waves coming in from the side open to the sea.  This water mixes & churns, forming many patterns, swirls & is fun to watch.  Many locals, including myself, like to check this out during storms when the waves are thrown high against the rocks & the churning of the waves are spell binding.

Continuing north on 101 you will cross the Thomas Creek Bridge.  At 345 ft it is the highest bridge in Oregon.  Its a shame you can’t stop on the bridge because that is where the best views are.  There are no really good overlooks of the bridge.  A very steep bush whack trail goes down to the creek.  I do not recommend this trail, it is for the young & foolish.

Next post will cover Natural Bridges & Thunder Rock Cove

Whales Head Rock

Whales Head Rock 

Less than a mile north of House Rock on 101 you will find the Whales Head Rock Resort.  You can see the Whales Head Rock from 101.  Right across the road from the resort is the drive down to the Whales Head Rock Beach parking area.  This road is very rough & not recommended for RVs & timid drivers.  This is another lovely, long, wide beach that gets lots of visitors during the summer.  A small cave & waterfall are hidden along this beach. 

Whales Head Rock Beach

There is also a small undeveloped parking area at the top of the Whales Head Rock drive.  You can access the Oregon Coast Trail here & do an approx. 1 mile hike that loops back to to 101, then walk back to your car on 101 (traffic not fun, but easy).  An easy scramble trail off this trail takes you out to one of my favorite overlooks.  Great views north & south.  Other than the first several sets of up hill switchbacks this is a pretty easy trail.

Enjoy Indian sands next post.

Boardman State Scenic Corridor

The Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor  

The Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor begins just north of Harris beach and extends approx.  12 miles up the coast.  The Oregon Coast Trail winds along Route 101 the length of Boardman Park.  Many beaches and rocky shores line this beautiful coast.  It is some of the best hiking I’ve ever done &  I’ve been hiking in many wild and wonderful places for about 60 years.  In addition to the places I describe, there are miles of good hiking all along this coast.  

Be careful & try not to fall off cliffs, it is a hassle to rescue you or recover your body.  Remember it is easier to climb up rocks than climb down.  Quite a few people have to be pulled off cliffs every year after they get stuck.

Lone Ranch Beach is approx. 2 mi north of Brookings.  The steep drive from 101 takes you down to  a really nice parking area approx 20 ft. above the beach. The main beach is quite wide with a long,  1.5 mi. crescent  shape studded with rocks of all sizes on shore & off shore.  The  Oregon Coast Trail goes uphill near the south end of the beach.  I recommend taking the trail up to the saddle.  You can access the top of the really big on shore rock with fantastic views if you wish. Then go down the other side of the saddle to a pair of rock walled beaches.  

Top: Lone Ranch Looking South,  Below: Lone Ranch Looking North with Cape Ferrelo

There is also a narrow opening at the south end of the beach between hugh rocks that allow you access to a long narrow beach with really cool near shore rocks  These are very striking, large rocks are staggered near shore and are fun to climb on at low tide.  This is also a great place for tide pooling.  This beach ends at steep cliffs approx 200 yards south of Lone Ranch Beach.

Crossing a small stream at the north end of the beach you will find yourself a the base of Cape Ferrelo.  A rocky head land looming approx. 150 ft above the Pacific Ocean.  There are scramble trails & the Oregon Coast Trail goes over it & has a loop that takes you out to the point were you can see miles of the coast both north & south.  There is a small parking area that allows access without the climb approx. .3 mi. north of Lone Ranch Beach’s drive on 101.   This cape is great!  I recommend hiking up from the beach, but its an almost level (a few dips) hike, aprox .5 mi to the Cape.

Cape Ferrelo

During foggy or misty days I like to go hiking on Cape Ferrelo, with my dog Moosh, dressed in a brown, Jedi Cloak with a large hood which hides my face, sun glasses, high lace up leather books, & a toy light saber hanging from my belt.  I always tell the people I run into that they have a nice planet & I hope they’ll be able to keep it that way.  This is an old game from the 70s called Mind Messing.

Approx. another .5 mi. north on 101 is the Rock House Viewpoint.  It has a memorial to Samuel H. Boardman, a small parking lot & great views up & down the coast.  This is one of the best overlooks for those with limited walking abilities, as the overlook is just a few steps up from the parking area.  They call it house rock because it looks like a house from out at sea.

Enjoy Whales Head Rock - next post.

Brookings Oregon Coast - Best on west coast! Part 1

I spent much of the last year living near Brookings/Harbor, Oregon because the 15 miles north of town is the most picturesque on the U. S. west coast south of Alaska. Located only six miles north of the California state line on Route 101, Brookings is wedged between the Klamath coastal mountain range and the Pacific Ocean.  Part of the Wild Rivers Coast, the Checto River flows into a shallow bay from the mountains here.   It has an excellent small boat harbor, a Coast Guard station, and a working fishing fleet.  While the timber and fishing industries have waned, they still exist here. It also has an active retirement community and is a tourist destination with many shops and overnight accommodations. The Brookings/ Harbor area has approximately 11,000 residents and is growing.  Weather during the summer is sunny with temps. 75* - 80* F. 

Chetco River, Harbor & Brookings Photos

Since there are no roads over the mountains, traffic travels north & south on route 101. There is an constant flow of touring bicyclist, hikers, RVs, and cars traveling through town during the summer.  The tide charts are published in The Curry Co Pilot, the local paper which comes on on Wed & Sat.  Well worth the money if you want to knows what is going on!

Up the North Bank Checto River Road you will find the northernmost stands of Redwoods.  These tend to be small and scattered, but well worth checking out.  There is an excellent 1.6 mile guided loop hike just beyond the Alferd A. Loeb State Park on the left.  Pick up the guides at Chrissy Field since there are never any in the box.  There are also are many primitive river bar camping sites managed by the Rouge River Siskiyou Natl. Forest up this road.  These are accessible by RVs & most have good swimming holes & good fishing.

The Oregon Coast Trail starts at the California line at Chrissy Field State Park on the Windchuck River.  It continues north through Brookings & up the coast to Washington.  A lot of people hike or bike this trail.  RVs cruise Rt 101 the lenght of Oregon.

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The beauty begins at the north end of town with the Harris Beach State Park.  Right on the edge of town, this beautiful park features great views of coastal cliffs, off shore rocks, pocket beaches, and has tent & RV camping.  Many Oregon Coast Trail packers & bike tourers rest here for a few days.  There is also a large Rest Area on the east side of Rt. 101 across from the entrance to Harris Beach State Park

Enjoy Boardman State Scenic Corridor - next post.