Natural Bridges & Thunder Rock Cove - Boardman Scenic Corridor

Natural Bridges & Thunder Rock Cove

The parking area for Natural Bridges is well marked on Rt. 101, about 12-14 mi N of Brookings, OR.  Exiting the parking south end of the parking lot, a short walk, mostly on a boardwalk, will take you to the best view of Natural Bridges.  There isn’t much beyond the end of the boardwalk of interest, unless you want to scramble down the hill & climb on the rocks.  The boardwalk trail, the short trail linkling  & the trail down to Thunder Rock Cove & Secret Beach, are sections of the Oregon Coast Trail.  Bring a picnic or lunch.

Just beyond the Natural Bridges parking area is another parking area.  The area north of this parking lot is my favorite of the whole lower 48 west coast.  The trail leaving the north end of the parking lot will take you down to Thunder Rock Cove.  Shortly after you cross a very small stream by parking lot, the trail forks.  The trail to the left takes you down to Thunder Rock Cove, then loops back up the hill, crosses the upper part of a shallow coast valley, then drops down to Secret Beach.  The right trail is just a short cut, to cut out Thunder Cove & joins the OCT going north.

Thunder Cove

It is about .3 mi down to Thunder Rock Cove, with some switch backs near the bottom.  Near a big tree on the left you can go as close to the edge of the cove as you want.  You’ll see cliffs about 70 ft. high enclosing a small cove. The cliffs sea ward side are pierced with several natural tunnels.  Check them out!  You won’t be able to see the large tunnel that pierces the cliff to the right unless you want to risk falling into the cove.  It is from this tunnel that you hear the thunder during big storms that gives Thunder Rock Cove its name.

Large Sea Arch w/ table land to right

From there the trail drops down a short distance to a nice wide cliff top table land.  Check out he beaches to the north (R/N).  You will be able to see the 3rd & 4th Secret Beaches.  Note: if you look carefully, you can see a dark natural tunnel in the big rock just beyond the 1st rock abutment. You can see water gust thru it during storms & you can access it from Secret Beach.

Secret Beaches

The views from the Thunder Cove table land are all great, in almost any weather.  I’ve been out here in all kinds of storms, except thunder storms.  There is a narrow water fall on the cove wall dropping aprox 60 ft onto a beach during spring & early summer.  This is a great place for a picnic during good weather.

Goat Rock

I’ve see Mt. Goats on the big pointly rock jutting out from the shore due south of the open side of the cove 5 or 6 times.  In 2010 there was 1 Billy with horns the length of his body, approx. 3 feet, & 3 Nanneys with little horns.  It is amazing they can walk on this rock, but that is why they are called Mt Goats.

Leaving the table land, the Oregon Coast Trail takes off on the left, where it loops back up the hill, crosses the upper part of a shallow coast valley, then drops down to Secret Beach. This is a pleasant hike of approx. .6 mi.  The short cut trail joins the OCT near the top of the hill.

Enjoy Secret Beach the next post in this series.

Indian Sands - Boardman Scenic Cooridor

Indian Sands

Near the top of the hill north of Whales Head on Rt 101 is the entrance to the Indian Sands parking lot.  There is good view of the coast northward from the parking lot. The trail exits the south side of the parking lot & goes up a little before it cuts steeply down the hill with several switchbacks.  I figure that if I can make it up this hill without stopping for a breath at my age, I’m in pretty good shape.

At the bottom of the hill it joins the Oregon Coast Trail.  By taking the OCT to the right a short hike will take you to Indian Sands.  This is a open area preached on rocky cliffs above the ocean.  The terrain is varied & well worth exploring.  There are rock outcrops, sea crevices, clay hills & drifting sand.  

The most popular place to visit is down hill to the left just as you reach the open area.  This will take you down to a very small cove with a large natural sea tunnel on the south and a small waterfall dropping approx. 80 ft. to the water in the cove.  This is a very appealing spot because waves are always pushing thru the tunnel & mixing with waves coming in from the side open to the sea.  This water mixes & churns, forming many patterns, swirls & is fun to watch.  Many locals, including myself, like to check this out during storms when the waves are thrown high against the rocks & the churning of the waves are spell binding.

Continuing north on 101 you will cross the Thomas Creek Bridge.  At 345 ft it is the highest bridge in Oregon.  Its a shame you can’t stop on the bridge because that is where the best views are.  There are no really good overlooks of the bridge.  A very steep bush whack trail goes down to the creek.  I do not recommend this trail, it is for the young & foolish.

Next post will cover Natural Bridges & Thunder Rock Cove

Whales Head Rock

Whales Head Rock 

Less than a mile north of House Rock on 101 you will find the Whales Head Rock Resort.  You can see the Whales Head Rock from 101.  Right across the road from the resort is the drive down to the Whales Head Rock Beach parking area.  This road is very rough & not recommended for RVs & timid drivers.  This is another lovely, long, wide beach that gets lots of visitors during the summer.  A small cave & waterfall are hidden along this beach. 

Whales Head Rock Beach

There is also a small undeveloped parking area at the top of the Whales Head Rock drive.  You can access the Oregon Coast Trail here & do an approx. 1 mile hike that loops back to to 101, then walk back to your car on 101 (traffic not fun, but easy).  An easy scramble trail off this trail takes you out to one of my favorite overlooks.  Great views north & south.  Other than the first several sets of up hill switchbacks this is a pretty easy trail.

Enjoy Indian sands next post.

Boardman State Scenic Corridor

The Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor  

The Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor begins just north of Harris beach and extends approx.  12 miles up the coast.  The Oregon Coast Trail winds along Route 101 the length of Boardman Park.  Many beaches and rocky shores line this beautiful coast.  It is some of the best hiking I’ve ever done &  I’ve been hiking in many wild and wonderful places for about 60 years.  In addition to the places I describe, there are miles of good hiking all along this coast.  

Be careful & try not to fall off cliffs, it is a hassle to rescue you or recover your body.  Remember it is easier to climb up rocks than climb down.  Quite a few people have to be pulled off cliffs every year after they get stuck.

Lone Ranch Beach is approx. 2 mi north of Brookings.  The steep drive from 101 takes you down to  a really nice parking area approx 20 ft. above the beach. The main beach is quite wide with a long,  1.5 mi. crescent  shape studded with rocks of all sizes on shore & off shore.  The  Oregon Coast Trail goes uphill near the south end of the beach.  I recommend taking the trail up to the saddle.  You can access the top of the really big on shore rock with fantastic views if you wish. Then go down the other side of the saddle to a pair of rock walled beaches.  

Top: Lone Ranch Looking South,  Below: Lone Ranch Looking North with Cape Ferrelo

There is also a narrow opening at the south end of the beach between hugh rocks that allow you access to a long narrow beach with really cool near shore rocks  These are very striking, large rocks are staggered near shore and are fun to climb on at low tide.  This is also a great place for tide pooling.  This beach ends at steep cliffs approx 200 yards south of Lone Ranch Beach.

Crossing a small stream at the north end of the beach you will find yourself a the base of Cape Ferrelo.  A rocky head land looming approx. 150 ft above the Pacific Ocean.  There are scramble trails & the Oregon Coast Trail goes over it & has a loop that takes you out to the point were you can see miles of the coast both north & south.  There is a small parking area that allows access without the climb approx. .3 mi. north of Lone Ranch Beach’s drive on 101.   This cape is great!  I recommend hiking up from the beach, but its an almost level (a few dips) hike, aprox .5 mi to the Cape.

Cape Ferrelo

During foggy or misty days I like to go hiking on Cape Ferrelo, with my dog Moosh, dressed in a brown, Jedi Cloak with a large hood which hides my face, sun glasses, high lace up leather books, & a toy light saber hanging from my belt.  I always tell the people I run into that they have a nice planet & I hope they’ll be able to keep it that way.  This is an old game from the 70s called Mind Messing.

Approx. another .5 mi. north on 101 is the Rock House Viewpoint.  It has a memorial to Samuel H. Boardman, a small parking lot & great views up & down the coast.  This is one of the best overlooks for those with limited walking abilities, as the overlook is just a few steps up from the parking area.  They call it house rock because it looks like a house from out at sea.

Enjoy Whales Head Rock - next post.

Brookings Oregon Coast - Best on west coast! Part 1

I spent much of the last year living near Brookings/Harbor, Oregon because the 15 miles north of town is the most picturesque on the U. S. west coast south of Alaska. Located only six miles north of the California state line on Route 101, Brookings is wedged between the Klamath coastal mountain range and the Pacific Ocean.  Part of the Wild Rivers Coast, the Checto River flows into a shallow bay from the mountains here.   It has an excellent small boat harbor, a Coast Guard station, and a working fishing fleet.  While the timber and fishing industries have waned, they still exist here. It also has an active retirement community and is a tourist destination with many shops and overnight accommodations. The Brookings/ Harbor area has approximately 11,000 residents and is growing.  Weather during the summer is sunny with temps. 75* - 80* F. 

Chetco River, Harbor & Brookings Photos

Since there are no roads over the mountains, traffic travels north & south on route 101. There is an constant flow of touring bicyclist, hikers, RVs, and cars traveling through town during the summer.  The tide charts are published in The Curry Co Pilot, the local paper which comes on on Wed & Sat.  Well worth the money if you want to knows what is going on!

Up the North Bank Checto River Road you will find the northernmost stands of Redwoods.  These tend to be small and scattered, but well worth checking out.  There is an excellent 1.6 mile guided loop hike just beyond the Alferd A. Loeb State Park on the left.  Pick up the guides at Chrissy Field since there are never any in the box.  There are also are many primitive river bar camping sites managed by the Rouge River Siskiyou Natl. Forest up this road.  These are accessible by RVs & most have good swimming holes & good fishing.

The Oregon Coast Trail starts at the California line at Chrissy Field State Park on the Windchuck River.  It continues north through Brookings & up the coast to Washington.  A lot of people hike or bike this trail.  RVs cruise Rt 101 the lenght of Oregon.

.

The beauty begins at the north end of town with the Harris Beach State Park.  Right on the edge of town, this beautiful park features great views of coastal cliffs, off shore rocks, pocket beaches, and has tent & RV camping.  Many Oregon Coast Trail packers & bike tourers rest here for a few days.  There is also a large Rest Area on the east side of Rt. 101 across from the entrance to Harris Beach State Park

Enjoy Boardman State Scenic Corridor - next post.

The Indians, East of Big Sur

I’ve found Boondocker* paradise in the central California coast range! or close to Paradise.  Its called The Indians, because this was last place the Salinas Indians lived in the area.  It features a free campground, with a low valley surrounded  by low mountain ridge peaks & big rock formations to the west, lots of hiking, hunting & trout fishing in season.

• Boondocking - The art of camping in an RV without paying.  Ideally in the Boondocks, but Walmart, business parks & near universities will do.

This is an absolutely beautiful area with large rock formations at approx. 45 degrees for easy climbing, almost level hikes across meadows with scattered rock formations, low rocky peaks to climb, & a closed road into the Arroyo Secord canyon for easy walking.  It is the best boondocking place I found during a 2 month long search of So Cal coastal and near coast mts in late 2010.

You can reach it via King City on Route 101 in the San Joaquin Valley or via Macimiento-Fergustion Road over coastal range from Big Sur, north of Plaskett, east at Kirk Creek campground.  From King City take G14 west.  Right at junction of Mission Road (about 20 miles & on Ft Hunter Liggett Military Reservation.  Near main base entrance on Mission Road, take Del Venturi Road to left. This will take you into Los Padres NF &The Indians.

The road climbs a shallow mountain valley out of fog & crosses two shallow fords of the San Antonio River.  The fords are closed by military during high water.  Enter south gate of the most northern section of Los Padres  National Forest.  Grassy valley with scattered trees, mountains are short, rocky & pointed. 

Road climbs over saddle & down into shallow valley with many trees.  Many damaged in recent 2008  fire, but recovering nicely.  Arrived at campground. Large parking area to right, suitable for a few RVs, no hookups, no water, no cell phone.  Real boondocking! Scattered tent campsites follow creek  & road to south entry of Arroyo Secord.  There are about twenty cabins & sportsman club picnic area & several very nice trails near campground.  By driving .7 mile back to saddle & easy climb up rocks about 100 feet, I was able to get four bars on my phone.

I visited during December & was told it was best time of year because the occasional frost keeps the flys down.  Was told they are  a problem during warmer months.  I stayed a week, had frost 1 night, most nights lows around 40*, had 3 sunny days, high upper 60* days, & 3 cloudy days & 2 mostly rain days, high lower 60*s. I planed on coming back in February or March to see what it is like then.

It is March & I am on my drive north.  Because of rain I will not be able to get across the fords to The Indians this season.  Sorry, no photos, it looks like I only took video & I don’t know how to post video yet.

Paskett Rock, Big Sur

Paskett Rock, Big Sur

3/21/11

Stayed at Paskett Creek Campground in Big Sur.  Located apporx. half way between San Simeon & Julia Pfeiffer Burns SP on the uphill side of Rt 1, this campground has approx 40 basic sites.  While it can accommodate RVs up to 35 ft, there are no hookups & many of the sites are not very level.  The campground has large trees for protection from the weather, which is important this time of year due to frequent storms. This is a Forest Service CG & site cost at this time is $22 per site per night.  I had read several bad reviews concerning porta potties, but the restrooms were open & I saw no problems.

This is a wonderful place to stay for a few days because its location allows you to really enjoy the essence of Big Sur.  Situated on a slopping plateau between the Mts. to the east & the Pacific Ocean, there are some good short hikes in the area with great views of the coast & the Mts.

Leaving the south end of the campground via a service road & crossing Rt 1, you will find a trial that will take you approx a half mi. across  the plateau to Paskett Rock.  Which juts out at the south end of a very small bay.  From this rock you can see for miles up & down the coast & get great views of the Mts.  This is also a great place to watch sunsets!

Exiting via the campground entry & walking north on Rt 1 a short distance will bring you to Sand Dollar Beach  parking lot, a day use area, user fees for this area are included in camping fees.  A short trail with stairs will take you down to the beach & the small bay.  The upper part of the beach is cobble stone & difficult to walk on.  At low tide a sandy beach is exposed which allows easy walking.

There are several dirt roads within a few miles of here that go a ways up the side of the Mts.  These can be rough & are not useable when wet.  There is the Wood Bone resort with a great views, a restraunt, pool, yurts & cabins a couple of mile south.  Along this strech of Rt. 1 there are many pull overs with great views & access to the ocean.

Approx. 4 mi north of Paskett Creek CG on Rt 1 is the FS Kirk Creek Camp Ground.  This CG has fewer spaces & is perched on a bluff above the ocean.  With no trees it is much more exposed to the weather but offers excellent views from your campsite.  

Near this CG is the western end of Macimento Fergusson Road,  This narrow paved road climbs the side of the Mt. using several switch backs with each turn offering a more spectacular view than the last one.  Near the top, the road then follows the side of the Mt. up a valley east until it crest the ridge.  At the ridge top there are roads going N & S along the ridge.  Once over the ridge the road decends down the side of a wooded valley, with more great views thru the trees, to the Ponderosa CG on the creek.  Traveling east it is approx. 30 mi to Hunter Liggett army base  & another 30 miles to King City & Rt 101.  The section of Los Padres NF north of Hunter Liggett is very nice & this route is a good way to get there.  See article called “The Indians” when I get around to posting it.  This is a rugged exit from Bug Sur, but one I highly recommend because it is beautiful country from beginning to end. I did it in RV!